Viva la Quebec!
Posted by CelticBear on 29th June 2006
I probably didn’t use the right gender in the subject, but, oh well. =)
So last weekend the family and I went to Quebec for my brother’s wedding. Actually, L’isle-Verte which is a small villiage about 20 minutes north of the town of Riviere-du-Loup which is about an hour or so north of the City of Quebec which is about three hours south of the North Pole. *grin*
But seriously, once you pass Quebec on highway 20, you are in complete and fantastic wilderness punctuated by the odd modern villiage bordering the St. Lawrence River, which is actually wide enough to be a huge lake. (Take a look on Google maps. It really looks like you should be in total desolation.) Here’s the crazy thing. We’re driving along the very well maintained highway 20 through landscape that looks like a perfect setting for a Middle Ages Viking movie, and we come upon villiages nestled against the hills. I would expect that these villiages, WAY way up this far north and in the open land would be like Arkansas villiages, reveling in their decrepitude. Nope! Every villiage we saw was modern, clean, well maintained buildings, modern stores, even art and theatre festival venues.
(My brother, who has been living in Montreal for about two years now if I recall, makes this observation: In Quebec (province in general,) there is no silly over-attachment to the old. Unlike places like Aurora, Missouri where people fight to keep the old run-down main street and town square the way it is, if something in Canada is getting run down, they tear it down and rebuild something modern. Not everything that’s old is “historic.”)
That said, the wedding was held in a historic courthouse in the villiage. In fact, much to my shy brother’s chagrin, it’s not only the first wedding held there since the couthouse became “historic,” but the first one there ever! And it was great! My brother and his fiancee (sp) worked HARD getting everything set up, and it all went off great. The music, the catering, the timing, was fantastic. A great start (from this wedding witness, in both ways,) to what I hope will be a great marriage!
(Warning! Religious discussion in this paragraph! Skip this paragraph to avoid diatribe.) Something I found interesting, every town and villiage appeared to have one church from what I could see, and they were Catholic churches. (Quebec is primarily Catholic.) According to my brother, Riviere-Du-Loup just got its first Baptist Church, and that’s mainly because it’s a pretty popular tourist town. But mainly, while Catholicism is the primary and nearly sole religion in Quebec, most people are not religious at all up there, like most western European countries. But the thing is, all but maybe two people I encountered in Quebec were extremely and sincerely friendly, nice, and welcoming. In contrast, most people I encounter down here in the Bible Belt tend to be arrogant, self-righteous, and insincerely friendly, like they’re compelled to be nice because they’re supposed to be, and not because it’s simply the best and “right” way to be. Perhaps it’s a Protestant vs. Eruopean Catholic thing. For example, at the wedding reception, most everyone was gregarious, outgoing, affectionate, and almost stereotypical of what you see people being like at Catholic wedding receptions with some kind of direct European heritage. It was a blast!
(Sorry, the religious diatribe continues for one more paragraph….) The point I’m getting at, and should be addressed in its own entry, and acknowledging that this is a generality and there are certainly exceptions!, is that it seems the American Protestant culture with its carrot-and-stick morality, encourages a very insincere morality where you do what’s right and good for your selfish desire for salvation and heavenly reward and avoidance of punishment. But non-theist cultures (of which Quebec is nearly one–while they have a heavy Catholic history, the people themselves are not really religious,) their sense of morality is more mature and gregarious. People are moral, friendly, treat each other well and kindly, because that’s simply the best way to get along and live life, not from fear of an eternal spanking.
(OK, religious babble over. Back to vacation talk.) So, we drove up and back, and each way took about 32 hours. I’m still exhausted! But 7-year-old daughter was fantastic throughout the entire trip! Never a complaint and always a good mood. (Although she was a little disappointed when she found out one of the surprises we got her was a “Garfield” book in French. She hid it well, though.)
Oh, speaking of French, man I love being immersed in a culture and language! In Montreal nearly everyone we met (this trip and the week we spent there last year,) was nearly completely bi-lingual. In Quebec and the northern regions pretty much everyone spoke only French. And that was cool. Me, I only know a few phrases, a dozen or so words, and thanks to my rather large (*arrogant grin*) volcabulary I can generally suss the meaning of any written French that contains words that are cousins to English words. Although I couldn’t conjugate a verb if my life depended on it. But in any case, I love having the oppotunity to try out what very little French I know and listen to conversations and figure out what they’re saying. I’m pretty sure that if I lived in Quebec I could become vaguely fluent in about a year. I’m not afraid to make a fool out of myself when it comes to labguage. *grin* (The fact that I post by blogs without ever spell-checking or proof-reading ought to be evidence of that!) Although, if I had my druthers, I’d rather my brother fell in love with a nice German girl. Thanks to college German classes I can still talk to a German pre-schooler reasonably well.
The landscape, as I mentioned, was incredible! Lower Quebec is of course just like upper New York which is very similar to Minnesota in that there are some hills, some grasslands, lots of pine and shrubery, lots of trees. But then you get up past Montreal and things start looking a little odd, but in a cool way. The hills take on weird shapes. There are some long tree covered ridges, but then there will be plains for a while and then one single hill shaped like an upside-down dixie cup out of nowhere. Copses of jagged yet tree covered hills here and there, and the huge river always to one side. More like a Great Lake that got pulled and stretched into a river going out to the Atlantic, really. Large islands, some a hill itself, some low with a hill or two stuck in the middle of it, here and there. It’s really hard to describe. I don’t have my pictures off our camera yet, so I can’t show you what I saw, but here’s a few pictures on someone’s site that show a little. Not quite as cool looking as some of the scenes I saw, but an idea: http://www.scenicsensations.com/galleries/gallerylocation/northernquebecimg.htm .
Oh yeah! Mosquitos! Holy mother of God they were everywhere! I was too young when I lived in Alaska to remember the mosquitos there, but I’m told they’re virtually Alaska’s state bird. I guess it must be the same on the other side of the continent because I was eaten up nearly literally. You almost have to wear clothing made out of Deet to avoid them. Gah!
But one of the most amazing things about the trip (aside from getting through it without hitting a deer, moose, or small woodland creature,) was the night sky! Oh. Man! The first night we were there, getting ready for bed, my wife had stepped out and came back saying “You have GOT to come out here!” To which I grumble, “Grumble grumble.” “No, seriously, you want to see this!” So I trudge my way outside into the mosquitos, and look up, and I don’t even need my glasses to see the sky literally filled with stars! The Milky Way so vibrant and clear, it was almost as bright and thick as a cloud!
Now, I live in the Ozarks, in the edge of a medium-ish town trying to be a city. We have light pollution and a scant amount of real pollution, but I never really thought it was that bad. But up there on a farm a couple miles outside a villiage away from a town and hours from a city, the sky was about as perfect as you could ever hope to see it. You could see nebula and smudges of galaxies with the naked eye! Not to mention of course our own galaxy, as I mentioned a moment ago. You couldn’t find a piece of sky where you could make a circle with your thumb and finger and hold it at arm’s length and not have the circle filled with stars bright and sharp and vibrant. It just completely makes it obvious how massive and infinite the universe is. How so very small and insignificant and isolated and amazing our little planet is.
I could so live in Canada.
Who knows, depending on how this November and then November two years from now turns out, I very well may!
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